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Hitch up your Trailer Part I

*Choosing the proper hardware as well as maintaining that hardware is important for a successful towing experience.

There are multiple choices and decisions involved when buying a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Along with picking colors, styles, floor plans and options, you have to negotiate and haggle for a fair trade-in on your old unit as well as get a balanced price on the one you finally pick. However, the most important thing is selecting the proper trailer hitch. After finding a reputable hitch store, selecting the right hitch is relatively easy as is installing it properly. Keeping the hitch adjusted and in good working order is the challenge. This step is a big part of the overall safety and comfort of towing. 

There are two distinct design differences in trailers on the market today. One is going to attach at the rear bumper of the tow vehicle and is sometimes referred to a “bumper-pull”. The other is called a 5th wheel trailer, and utilizes the bed area of a pick-up centering over the rear differential and requires the proper 5th Wheel plate. There a many styles and methods for using a 5th Wheel that can be purchased.

All hitches are rated by their manufactures to handle a specific gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). This is your trailer weight, fully loaded with supplies and all the tanks full including propane tanks. There are several weight classes involved when towing a travel trailer.

  • Class I 200Lb HW 2000Lb GVWR
  • Class II 350Lb HW 3500Lb GVWR
  • Class III 500Lb HW 5000Lb GVWR
  • Class IV 750Lb HW 7500Lb GVWR
  • Class V 1200Lb HW 12000Lb GVWR

(Note: there may be some variances in these ratings.)
HW=Hitch Weight

Lighter trailers use weight-carrying hitches that are designed for all the weight of the trailer to be on the ball of the hitch and is therefore transferred to the tow vehicles rear axle. Weight distribution hitches by contrast distribute the weight of the trailer to all the axles of the trailer and tow vehicles allowing you to tow heavier trailers with much higher hitch weight without destabilizing your vehicle while towing.

The target weight distribution consists of a minimum hitch weight of around 10% of the gross weight, and maximum up to 15% as long as it does not exceed the hitch rating.

Class II hitches and up are primarily used for recreational towing. The hitch or receiver will be bolted to the frame of the tow vehicle. Box dimensions that hold the slide in the ball mount or draw bar range in sizes as well. From 1 ¼ inch and 2 inch with 2 inch being the most common. Class V receivers sometimes have a 2 ½ inch receiver tube size and will have the highest rating of all the bumper style hitches on the market. The ball mounts are secured with a pin and clip. It is important to think about locking pins for your ball mount. These are easy to remove and can be taken within seconds and with steel prices on the rise, it is good to protect your investment. Locking pins are a very inexpensive way to secure your hardware.

Other areas to consider when talking about the ball mount is the amount of “drop” you have which is basically the vertical distance the tow vehicle is lower or higher in relation to the trailer hitch with both vehicles level. It is also important to note this may change some when you actually put weight on the on the hitch. There is a wide range of different ball mounts as well, some with fixed positions and some that adjust up or down depending on what your need would be. This is all very important to get your optimum towing experience.

Depending on what you will tow and whether you need a weight distribution system, ball mounts or draw bars will vary in styles. Weight carrying hitches are different than those used for weight distribution. A weight distribution hitch also varies based on tow vehicle and total trailer weight. As a general rule, weight distribution hitches make for a safer towing experience by distributing the weight and making both the tow vehicle and the trailer ride level, thus giving a more stable ride. If you over load a weight carrying hitch (one without a weight distribution hitch) all the weight of the trailer is on the back axle and removing weight form the front, destabilizing the tow vehicle while in motion.

Although installing a weight distribution hitch is highly suggested, when doing so, you must make sure it is adjusted properly. Be sure not to put too much tension on the spring bars. In most all cases when a weight distribution system is adjusted properly, both the tow vehicle and the trailer are level thus improving your steering and braking response. To find out if your weight distribution hitch is properly adjusted, make sure your tow vehicles attitude returns the pre-trailer position. If your vehicle squats just slightly, this is acceptable. If there is some sagging of the tow vehicle after hitching, you will have to adjust the spring bar. This is an indication the system is not distributing the weight adequately. A helpful hint for making it easier to pull up on the tension bars; If you are suing a trunion or a round tension bar with chains, it may help to lower the jack on the trailer to bring the level up with the hitch ball LOCKED in place. This will raise both your tow vehicle and the trailer and allow you to secure the chain and boot to the locked position with less effort. Once locked in place, raise the jack and if properly adjusted, your trailer and tow vehicle will be level.

While in tow, a trailer that sways under any circumstance can be unnerving and downright dangerous. There are several ways to dissipate sway easily. One way is with a friction sway controller, often called a sway-bar. Anytime you use a weight distribution hitch, it is highly recommended you use a sway control devise. How a sway control works is as simple to use as it is to understand. Basically a sway-bar is used to control the rotation of the trailer from the pivot point, which is the ball. The most popular sway control devise use friction. A steel bar or plane is encased in a rail that attaches to the exposed frame of the trailer or “A” frame. The other end will go next to the ball located on the ball mount. By tightening a lever on the sway controller, this will cause friction and nearly eliminate the trailer from wagging back and forth while in motion. Heavier trailers may need a pair of sway controllers acting in unison. Cam type of sway control systems use shafts that increase tension as the trailer turns or pivots.

Understanding these and other principals of towing will lead to safer and thus more enjoyable time out on the open road.


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